A Colonial Era Relic

I went on a research trip on March 29, 2012, to look at the changing nature of the urban-rural continuum in western Kenya.  But that isn't what this is about.  In the process of driving around, and interviewing various people, my co-investigator Tom Esipila, a lecturer in the department, took us to the Kapsabet Hotel.  What I find interesting about this little place is that it was clearly built during the colonial period, and represented a place for those living in what are still called "the white highlands" to gather near the forest, where I believe it may have been cooler during the dry season, and have their gatherings.  The stories of the colonialists are rampant, in terms of drinking, wife swapping, and other tales, but today this relic is a bit down on its luck.  Still, with a little imagination you can easily imagine the well dressed British colonialists drinking cocktails during a garden party at the Kapsabet Hotel.

This is the bar and restaurant at the hotel.  It is in bungalow style, which would never be built today, but clearly shows the influence by the British.

This is a typical bungalow.  During the colonial period, no blacks would have been welcome at the hotel, though they would have been nearby as servants and workers.

A view down the walkway.  You can almost imagine the lighthearted laughter of the colonialists as they made their way down the path to the dining room.

The inside of the bar, where the men would likely have stopped first before going to dinner.  You can almost imagine Denys Finch Hatton stopping in for a beer or cocktail before dinner.

The fireplace in the bar, a sure sign that the British had been here.  Kenyans don't put in fireplaces....

A view of the grounds.  Still well taken care of, it's the rooms that have gone to heel.

You can almost imagine Beryl Markham (that maneater), sitting around one of these tables with a martini in her hands, regaling her companions with her flying exploits.

Dorothy, one of the students who was helping us that day.  Hard to believe that before 1963 she couldn't have even visited here as a guest.

Me in my Moi University shirt, on the steps of the bar.

These bungalows were in pretty good shape.  There was a lodge as well, which would have held about ten people in various rooms.

What remains of the pool.  It was probably more for light swimming, so the British could drink for a while and then get into the pool and cool off.  Sad to see something like this disappear.

The boiler system that was installed to make sure that the guests had hot water in their rooms.

All in all an intriguing remnant of an entire way of life swept away.  This place doesn't show up on a google search, it really isn't in any of the guidebooks that I've seen.  Nevertheless, if these walls, if these trees, if these grass canopies could talk, oh what I am sure they have seen!